QUALITY BREEDING

DOPEY DUTCH BREEDING PHILOSOPHY

Getting a dog from a Champion bloodline is great in that you can be assured the breeders have been responsible and are attempting to uphold the overall standards of the breed.  However, many peoiple do not realize that a show dog is not required to pass any health clearances.  This is why we spend time doing our homework to ensure the dogs we choose meet the highest standards in HEALTH as well as conformation. Several important conditions cannot be tested for until a dog is 2 years old.  Many dogs being shown already have Championships at this point.  If heart, hip, eye or elbow issues are discovered at that point, a responsible breeder may continue to show that dog, but will not breed them.

What do you look for in a dog to breed?

In the US, the OFA (the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) maintains the CHIC Program (Canine Health Information Center) and their approval is the gold standard to which we hold all of our dogs to.  Required tests are determined by breed to allow breeders to select dogs with less propensity to the major afflictions of any breed.  

For Golden Retrievers, the OFA testing includes genetic tests, hip, heart (Advanced Cardiac – EKG) eye and elbow evaluations.  Although preliminary testing can be done, most of these require the animal to be over 2 years old to ensure they have finished growing.

When you hear a dog ‘passed hips’, it means they are among the 78% of Goldens that are not likely to develop hip dysplasa.  If you see a dog has ‘excellent hips’, they are among the elite group of 5.4% in this highest rated category.  This is the only test with such a dramatic difference between merely passing and achieving an ‘excellent’ grade. For more information, check out this page on the OFA website: https://ofa.org/chic-programs/browse-by-breed/?breed=GR

In addition to passing health clearances, our dogs are also temperament tested and many have titles in various obedience and skills tests.  On ‘Our Pack’ page, you will see many letters following the names of our dogs.  There is a link on that page to the list of AKC titles and what they mean.  To ensure dogs are not overly stressed during growth, many titles cannot be obtained until after the 2 year mark.  Those tests that are not physically demanding can be done sooner.  As an example, Canine Good Citizen (CGC) tests a dog’s reaction to ordinary situations and some extraordinary situations.  The dog must be calm and unphased during testing to pass. 

When a 2 year old dog has passed all their tests, has exhibited an overall good attitude and aptitude for learning and is conformationally correct, they are considered to become part of the breeding program.

After selection, a breeding dog will only be bred once per year and no more than 4 times in their lifetime.  After age 6, females are retired, whether they’ve had 4 litters or not, with only rare exceptions made. Males can be bred much later in life, but also have semen collected and frozen for future use.  That is why our pack is 90% female.

Many breeders re-home their females when they are no longer being used for breeding.  All of our dogs are family and we are very attached to them, so they remain as part of our family for the rest of their lives, with very few exceptions.

To create a breeding pair, whether using our own dogs or choosing a stud from another kennel, the personality of each dog, their size, color and lineage are all factored in to produce the healthiest, most well-adjusted puppies possible.  As with any living thing, situations can (and do) arise, but careful preparation and thorough homework reduce the risk.

Because we take these steps when producing a litter, we offer an excellent guarantee to our new puppy families so that they can rest easy that if something does come up in the first two years, we will be there to help them through it in a variety of ways.

To find our more about the breeding process, please see our “Breeding Process” page or click the “BREEDING” button below.

THE BREEDING PROCESS EXPLAINED

PREPARING FOR BREEDING

Before any breeding is set up, before the  mother-to-be is even in heat, a lot of research goes into finding just  the right match. To be selected to breed one of our females, studs are  analyzed for temperament, conformation, clear hips-elbows-eyes-heart and  absence of any genetic conditions that can be tested. An international  database of Golden Retrievers is used to calculate the degree to which  the two dogs may be related. All these factors add up to ensuring we  produce the best quality dogs with the best chance of long and happy  lives. 

BREEDING

Once the stud is selected and an agreement is  made, we wait for the next heat cycle.  At that time, the “straws” of  collected semen are sent to a vet who specializes in dog breeding.  The  female has two straws surgically placed in her uterus.  In a week, the  vet checks hormone levels to determine if the breeding has been  successful.

PREGNANCY

During the next 60 days, our  mother-to-be (MTB) is given special vitamins to help her system cope  with the new lives growing inside her. She continues all normal  activities, but as time goes on playing is reduced to less stressful  activities. Not much changes for the MTB except for extra belly rubs and  massages as she gets near to her due date.  A fit and active dog has an  easier time giving birth and we feel a happy dog is essential for  successful outcomes.

Around day 55, an X-ray is taken to  determine how many pups there are. This is a fairly accurate  determination, but there are sometimes pups that “hide” behind others,  so it is not an exact number. Knowing the number of pups to expect +/-  1) is essential to a smooth birthing process.

PREPARING FOR BIRTH

The week before the puppies are due is busy with set up:

Towels (LOTS of towels) are washed and stacked so they can be easily grabbed during birthing

Calcium supplements, Nuti-Cal and a variety of emergency medications are obtained

The oxygen machine and incubator are set up and tested

The whelping box is set up, including a heating pad, heat lamps and a thermometer to measure air temp

Many  waterproof liners, fleece carpeting and absorbent pads are readied for  use.  More baby wipes than you would believe are stocked up

Goats’ milk, calcium supplements and ice cream are obtained for the birthing process and beyond

Scissors and hemostats are sterilized and set up next to the whelping box

And then we wait…..

At  day 60, the MTB is never left unattended.  She has her temperature  taken twice daily and is given lots of belly massgaes, as she is big now  and can be a bit uncomfortable (just like a human mom).  When her  temperature starts to drop, we know its almost time and all preparations  are double checked for readiness.  Cots for the humans are set up near  the box and we prepare for several days of little to no sleep as we  anxiously await the signal that “IT’S TIME!”.

BIRTHING

When  the MTB’s temperature drops below 100 degrees, monitoring is moved up to  every 4 hours.  The next drop in temperature alerts us that labor is  beginning.  This is the hardest part for the impatient humans who are  now watching MTB’s every move, especially if it’s her first litter.   Just like humans, labor varies greatly from dog to dog. Some can be in  the initial stages for a few days. Others go from nothing to the first  pup being born in just hours. Typically, the day after the temperature  drop is when contractions begin. 

Like the initial signs of  labor, contractions can last for just a few minutes to several hours. If  strong and consistent contractions occur for more than 3 hours, it’s  time to go to the vet and get some help. This is rarely necessary, as  the MTB is given calcium to assist in the birthing process and keep her  strength up and combat the loss of calcium in her system as milk is  being produced.

When the first puppy is delivered, things get pretty hectic.  The process for each pup is:

One  person takes the  pup from mom, breaks the sack (each pup has its own  sack and placenta) if it has not opened during birth, and starts rubbing  the pup with its head pointing down. This dries the pup off and  stimulates it to cry. This helps clear any liquid from the lungs and  gets the pup breathing strong.  Sometimes pups do not breath right away  on their own and this gets them to start breathing

At the same time, the other person puts a clamp on the umbilical cord and cuts it so the placenta can be removed.

Suction is used in the nose and mouth to get any remaining fluid out of the airways

Oxygen is given and you can visibly watch the pup turn from greyish to pink

After  a few minutes of nursing and being licked by the new mom, the pup has  the umbilical clamp removed, gets weighed, gets a colored collar and is  moved to the 90 degree incubator with oxygen pumped in

Births are  normally around 30 minutes apart, which gives time to clean up any  fluids, give mom calcium, and a small drink and prepare for the next  arrival.  It’s not really much time and the whole process can become  somewhat of a blur, which is why it’s important to note the time of each  birth and weight of each pup as they are delivered. If anything goes  wrong, this data becomes critical in determining how to proceed

FINISHING THE BIRTHING PROCESS

When  the expected number of puppies have been born, the mom is watched  carefully to see if there is another one that may have been missed on  the initial count; to be sure the mom is not in any distress; to allow   her to pass any placentas that did not come out with the puppy and to  allow her a short time to rest. 

Once the birthing process is  complete, all the puppies are given to the mom to nurse and care for. At  this point, the oxygen and incubator should no longer be needed.

As humans, our job is to keep mom and pups safe, which requires 24/7 supervision.